2016年12月7日 星期三

[筆記]rope management

跟K在NamPhapayai爬了一條多繩距的Madagascar,五個繩距,難度不難(最多5+)大多數是橫渡(Traverse)。但因為多繩距操作不熟悉搞了很久,而且還時常打結。



所以研究了一些關於rope management的東東整理在這裡。
是說一般多繩距都會swap,swap的時候,確保者會在接下來要去的反方向,攀登者從上面second上來,站在攀登方向上,直接從攀登方向出發。但是橫渡在swap的時候很容易打結,因為second的人會到攀登的反方向,需要跟確保者換位子orz...

垂降

關於垂降好像比較少相關的資料
主要是
  1. 先丟繩中
  2. 把繩尾弄成一綑"Toepedo"
  3. 在風大的時候可以避免繩子被亂吹
  4. Saddle Bag
  5. 把繩子兩邊分別整理好(一樣是下面常上面短),掛在腰邊垂降,避免繩子被亂吹或打到下面的人
ref

taking-in 收繩中
it's me

Your coils should start at your harness and move one by one toward your anchor

If your partner is leading the next pitch…Make the first loops the longest, so the shorter coils will be on top.

ref
If the weather is calm always go for a decreasing loop stack.

place yourself on the opposite side from where your partner will be leading off from. If I position myself on the left that means I will stack the rope on my right side (or lap coil) and my partner will arrive at my right side and exit from my right side as well.

When I arrive at the belay I expect that my partner has racked all the remaining gear on his climbing rope that is clove hitched to the anchor (see picture) or on a single sling (see picture) in ascending or descending order,

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